More Than Meets The Eye
LIKE AN ARÊTE, NIKKI SEES HER LIFE AS MULTIDIMENSIONAL. NOT EXCLUSIVELY DEFINED BY HER CLIMBING, PHOTOGRAPHY, OR WRITING, SHE TAKES PRIDE IN HAVING MANY FACETS OF CREATIVITY AND CONNECTING WITH THE MOUNTAINS SHE CALLS HOME.
Credit: Irene Yee
NIKKI
CLIMBER, PHOTOGRAPHER + ADVOCATE (SHE, HER)
SMITH
Nikki Smith is a climber with more than 30 years of experience and has been working in the outdoor industry and climbing world since 1998. Her photography has been featured in many outdoor publications, and she is a National Geographic Adventure photo contributor. She’s authored five climbing guidebooks to date and has written many feature articles for major climbing magazines including Rock and Ice, Alpinist, Deadpoint, and Urban Climber. She has completed over 200 roped first ascents of sport, trad, mixed and ice climbs from 30’ to 1,600’ throughout Utah, Wyoming, and Idaho, and has traveled the world to climb. Nikki is an advocate for the outdoors and is a part of the Protect Our Winters Athlete Alliance. Nikki is also an illustrator and painter.
In Her Element
AN ALL-AROUND CLIMBER OF MORE THAN THREE DECADES, NIKKI HAS MADE A NAME FOR HERSELF IN ALL DISCIPLINES OF ALPINE CLIMBING WITH A LONG LIST OF FIRST ASCENTS ON BOTH ROCK AND ICE.
Credit: Irene Yee
WHAT IS THE BIGGEST THING BEING A CLIMBER HAS GIVEN YOU?
Climbing has given me a space to connect, to be outside with great friends, and to put all our energy into an experience. You really get to know someone well when they are your only lifeline far from the car. The relationships I've built from climbing have been so vital for me.
BEYOND CLIMBING, HOW ELSE DO YOU EXPLORE THE MOUNTAINS AROUND YOU?
I trail run, mountain bike, hike, backpack, ski, snowboard, and forage. While climbing allows me to focus and remove distractions, trail running does the opposite for me. I spend a lot of time thinking while I’m running. I’m able to work out issues in my life. I sometimes write in my head as I run, then stop at a stream or overlook and put all my thoughts onto my phone. I also spend a lot of time foraging in the fall. A lot of our food comes from our garden or the mountains. Our pantry is filled with jams from serviceberries, mulberries, elderberries, currants, Oregon grape, and raspberries. I also forage many different types of mushrooms, fiddleheads, watercress, nettle, and other savory items. It’s so satisfying to make meals with ingredients from our garden and foraging. Fresh, in-season ingredients add so much to any dish.
Credit: Irene Yee
CAREER HIGHLIGHTS
More than 200 roped first ascents and another 200+ boulder problems.
- FIRST ASCENT OF “THE ONE WHO KNOCKS” (WI6 M5 R/X, 550’ ICE/MIXED), REID’S PEAK, UINTAS, UTAH
- FIRST ASCENT OF “THE BONE COLLECTOR” (WI5 M5, 595’ ICE/MIXED) HELLGATE, LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANYON, UTAH
- FIRST ASCENT OF “SIREN SONG” (WI4- M4 R/X, 1600’ ICE/MIXED) OSTLER PEAK, UINTAS, UTAH
AUTHORED BY NIKKI
- A GRANITE GUIDE: FERGUSON TO LONE PEAK
- BEEHIVE ICE: A GUIDE TO UTAH’S ICE AND MIXED CLIMBS
- UINTA ROCK: A GUIDE TO THE MIRROR LAKE SCENIC BYWAY
- WASATCH MIXED: A GUIDE TO PROVO AND SANTAQUIN CANYONS
- WASATCH MIXED II: A GUIDE TO NORTHERN UTAH’S MIXED & SELECT ICE ROUTES
Credit: Irene Yee
HOW HAS THE ROLE OF CLIMBING
AND PHOTOGRAPHY IN YOUR LIFE EVOLVED SINCE YOU FIRST STARTED?
For a long time, it was my entire life. It started out good, but over time, I used it negatively to avoid dealing with my "real life" issues. If I didn't get out for that rare to-form ice climb or first ascent, I'd get so upset. Now I feel like I've been able to return to climbing for the reasons I originally fell in love with climbing for. I climb for myself, and if I can't get out for some reason, it's ok. I have a lot of other passions in my life, and they are all important to who I am.
WHAT TYPE OF PHOTOGRAPHY OR
STYLE OF IMAGES IS YOUR FAVORITE?
I love portraiture. It was something I was afraid of for so long. You have to get in close, get to know people, get them to open up. I love getting an image that really captures who they are as a person. So many of us are self-conscious about our own portraits. While I hope and aim for something my subjects will like and be proud of, what I’m really trying to do is create an image that those who know my subjects best will see and instantly connect with.
WHAT INSPIRES YOUR WORK TODAY?
There are so many artists out there that inspire me. From photography, to painting, illustration, graphic design, wood/lino-cut, ceramics, sculpture, woodwork writing, acting, dancing, etc. I’m inspired by creativity of all types. I dabble in so many different mediums and styles. While I’m most known for my climbing photography and writing, that is just a small part of the creative work I do. I feel it’s super important for all creatives to try new things. Be a beginner. Do something poorly. We can learn so much by doing things we can fail at.
NIKKI'S FAVORITE
PRODUCTS
PRODUCTS
Women’s Kor Alloy™ Tight
Women’s Ghost Whisperer™ Hoody
Alpine Light™ 50L Backpack
Women’s Butter Up™ Long Sleeve Hoody
Ice Cool
IT’S NO SIMPLE FEAT CAPTURING MOMENTS IN THE VERTICAL WORLD, BUT BEING A MULTI-DISCIPLINARY CLIMBER MAKES NIKKI’S JOB A LITTLE EASIER.
SHOW UP & BE SEEN
As an advocate for the LGBTQIA+ community, much of Nikki’s work is focused on building a more inclusive, diverse, and safe community within climbing and the outdoors. What started as a reminder to herself, Nikki’s tattoo, a reference to a Brené Brown quote, represents the impact she hopes to have on her communities. She believes representation matters and is motivated to cultivate a sense of belonging for everyone who doesn’t see themselves or feel they fit in climbing..
“
I want to make people feel welcome in the outdoors and beyond. Climbing and the outdoors have been vital in my life, and I want to make sure everyone has their own transformative experiences in the outdoors.
”
Taking Pride In Her True Colors
AMONG THE RAINBOW OF GEAR CLIPPED TO HER HARNESS, NIKKI SPORTS HER SIGNATURE CHALK BAG OF THE TRANS FLAG.
Credit: Irene Yee
WHAT DO YOU WISH MORE PEOPLE IN THE OUTDOORS KNEW?
I wish more people had access and connection to our outdoor spaces. The more time you spend outside and the deeper your connection becomes, it’s easier to understand what we risk losing if we don’t do our part to take care of the places we love.
WHAT ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF?
I hope I’m remembered as someone who supported change and growth in people and within the outdoors. I’m really proud of the role I had in creating Open Aperture, the AMGA LGBTQIA2S+ SPI scholarship, and the Scarpa SAMI Program.
Open Aperture
NIKKI IS THE GUIDING FORCE BEHIND “OPEN APERTURE” - OUR PHOTOGRAPHY CLINIC DESIGNED FOR UNDERREPRESENTED GROUPS WITHIN THE OUTDOORS. THIS PHOTO WAS CAPTURED BY ONE OF THE SCHOLARSHIP RECIPIENTS FROM OUR 2021 COHORT.
Credit: Lani Gailey
Credit: Irene Yee
