Parker Reed climbing Houseboy 5.12c
“AN IMPRESSIVE SEND ON A ROPE, HOUSEBOY OVER THE WATER IS MUCH SPOOKIER. WITH FEW DEEP WATER ASCENTS, THIS ROUTE REMAINS COVETED BY THE CLIMBING COMMUNITY FOR ITS COMMITTING MOVES HIGH ABOVE THE WATER. TINY SMEARS FOR FEET IN THE DIHEDRAL AND BIG SPANS BETWEEN TINY FINGER CRACKS, CLIMBERS MUST FIND THE BALANCE BETWEEN TRY-HARD AND MENTAL PREPARATION FOR A POTENTIAL FALL INTO THE WATER FROM 50 FEET. SLIDING OUT OF FINGER-LOCKS WITH STEMMED FEET MAKES THE ANGLE OF THE FALL THAT MUCH HARDER TO NEGOTIATE ON TAKE-OFF. PARKER REED IS SEEN HERE TRYING HARD AND SENDING ON OUR LAKE DAY. A TALENTED CLIMBER AND MULTI SPORT ATHLETE, PARKER IS ONE OF THE LAKE’S MANY CHARACTERS, OFTEN SEEN HIGH ABOVE THE WATER MAKING MOVES LOOK EFFORTLESS.”
Image & Words: Karen Lane
DEEP
WATER
SOUTH
WATER
SOUTH
A SUMMER PHOTO ESSAY
WORDS AND IMAGES BY KAREN LANE
WORDS AND IMAGES BY KAREN LANE
Karen Lane, local Fayetteville, West Virginia, climber and
photographer is passionate about the special culture, people,
and rock in the American south. Often, climbers seek deep water
solo adventure halfway across the world. But with recent access
made available at Summersville Lake, a warm Appalachian road
trip is the perfect summer plan. Come along as Karen gives us a
tour of the refreshingly close-to-home deep water climbing
offered just outside the back screen door.
PARKER REED
CLIMBING LEFT OFF OF RAT RACE (12A)
CLIMBING LEFT OFF OF RAT RACE (12A)
The sandstone climbing at the Summersville Lake, WV, is year-round, but sport, trad and lakeside boulders are winter ephemerals, only accessible when the lake is drained in the fall.
In the spring, the lake is filled back up by the Gauley, making most routes into world-class deep water solos. Some climbs are bolted, established routes, and some are only safely climbed over the water, making for a unique climbing experience.
In the spring, the lake is filled back up by the Gauley, making most routes into world-class deep water solos. Some climbs are bolted, established routes, and some are only safely climbed over the water, making for a unique climbing experience.
PARKER REED
SIERRA HALSTENBERG
KELLY LA CAVA
DAN LA CAVA
MAKE THEIR WAY UP RAT RACE (12A)
SIERRA HALSTENBERG
KELLY LA CAVA
DAN LA CAVA
MAKE THEIR WAY UP RAT RACE (12A)
The Summersville Lake was constructed in the mid-60s, and climbers began route development in the region in the early 80s, making the deep water solos here one of the first legitimate locations for the sport in the world, though people have climbed over water far before rock climbing was labeled a sport.Â
In the winter, when the lake is drained and the deep water solos return to roped climbs and boulders, climbers scout and rope up to practice the routes they intend to deep water solo. Climbers also check to see the visible, stained water-line to confirm the route is safe for falls into the water. Though not all climbs are sussed this way. Some DWS routes are established water-up, onsite, in the heat of the summer, making for exciting ascents.Â
In the winter, when the lake is drained and the deep water solos return to roped climbs and boulders, climbers scout and rope up to practice the routes they intend to deep water solo. Climbers also check to see the visible, stained water-line to confirm the route is safe for falls into the water. Though not all climbs are sussed this way. Some DWS routes are established water-up, onsite, in the heat of the summer, making for exciting ascents.Â
Kelly and Dan are some of the lake’s most talented and passionate deep water soloists. They captain their boat around the lake with their two kids in tow, swapping climber-drop offs onto the wall with the boat, watching the kids, and climbing.Â
Sierra Halstenberg is another local climber, mom, and deep water soloist climbing with the La Cavas while the kids play in the water below. She is known for her hard sport climbing ascents, which she is translating into her deep water solo practice.Â
The team was already close friends on our shoot date. They've built a community around parenthood, rural living, and deep water soloing. They continue to put up first ascents of routes around the lake, pushing limits of height and grades over the water as some of the area’s boldest climbers.
Sierra Halstenberg is another local climber, mom, and deep water soloist climbing with the La Cavas while the kids play in the water below. She is known for her hard sport climbing ascents, which she is translating into her deep water solo practice.Â
The team was already close friends on our shoot date. They've built a community around parenthood, rural living, and deep water soloing. They continue to put up first ascents of routes around the lake, pushing limits of height and grades over the water as some of the area’s boldest climbers.
KELLY LA CAVA
CHALKING UP & DRINKING A BREW
REBEKAH MULL
CLIMBING LEFT OFF OF RAT RACE (12A)
CHALKING UP & DRINKING A BREW
REBEKAH MULL
CLIMBING LEFT OFF OF RAT RACE (12A)
Deep water soloing isn’t without its risks. After confirming the water underneath the climb is deep enough for a whip at the chains, falls have to be managed from take-off to landing. Hitting water from 80 feet can feel like concrete without pointed toes and a straight body. Apart from the technical challenges, there’s a few legal requirements, as the lake is managed by both the Army Corps of Engineers and the Department of Natural Resource Police.
The rules have changed over the years with respectful climbers convincing the cops of climbing’s legitimacy and by referencing very few climbing-related injuries, making climbing over the lake technically legal at any height. This means falling is also legal. It always adds some extra spice to your climb when the law rolls in on boats to watch.
KELLY LA CAVA
Many east-coast climbers flee west in the summer for cooler conditions, but those in-the-know travel to the Summersville Lake to relax on paddle boards with cool beverages and get a little scared over the water.Â
With no established guidebook for deep water solos, climbs are shared verbally through the community and with visiting climbers. Though, some use the rope climbing guide to find bolted routes to climb over the water. There are zones with easy, fun climbs for newer climbers and kids and crags with 5.12 and up. Most local climbers know the routes but regularly take detours, climbing and traversing sometimes hundreds of feet horizontally for the pureness of the flow. Few people log their deep water solo ascents for clout on online platforms. Most climbs aren’t known or established, some don’t have names. Climbing on the lake is just that: moves on the wall for the fun of it.
With no established guidebook for deep water solos, climbs are shared verbally through the community and with visiting climbers. Though, some use the rope climbing guide to find bolted routes to climb over the water. There are zones with easy, fun climbs for newer climbers and kids and crags with 5.12 and up. Most local climbers know the routes but regularly take detours, climbing and traversing sometimes hundreds of feet horizontally for the pureness of the flow. Few people log their deep water solo ascents for clout on online platforms. Most climbs aren’t known or established, some don’t have names. Climbing on the lake is just that: moves on the wall for the fun of it.
Lots of climbers around the world are multi-sport athletes—trail running, biking, kayaking—and West Virginians are no different. Paddle boarding is the main mode of transportation to and from climbs with swimming as a cooling reward for your efforts.
With the change of weather from crisp temperatures suited to hard boulder and rope climbs, to hot and humid, southern climbers here have adapted to staying motivated, stoked, and full of activity on the lake and in the surrounding creeks and rivers.Â
Hard climbing doesn’t stop here in the summer—it just gets way more fun.
Hard climbing doesn’t stop here in the summer—it just gets way more fun.
PARKER REED
[FROM TOP TO BOTTOM] RAT RACE (5.12A)
THE SNORKELER (5.12B)WHIPPOORWILL, SUMMERSVILLE LAKE, WEST VIRGINIA
MASUKO (5.11A) WHIPPOORWILL, SUMMERSVILLE LAKE, WEST VIRGINIA
[FROM TOP TO BOTTOM] RAT RACE (5.12A)
THE SNORKELER (5.12B)WHIPPOORWILL, SUMMERSVILLE LAKE, WEST VIRGINIA
MASUKO (5.11A) WHIPPOORWILL, SUMMERSVILLE LAKE, WEST VIRGINIA
SIERRA HALSTENBERG
SASCROTCH (5.12A)
LONG POINT, SUMMERSVILLE LAKE,
WEST VIRGINIA
SASCROTCH (5.12A)
LONG POINT, SUMMERSVILLE LAKE,
WEST VIRGINIA
Climbers who know deep water soloing probably know it in relation to Mallorca, Spain: climbs over the Mediterranean Sea with massive waves crashing the cliffside with an array of equally massive dynos. Our deep water soloing at the lake feels far more accessible. The comfortable water is clear blue and still, with climbs anywhere from 5.6-5.13+, making it great for beginner climbers.Â
PARKER REED ON STUMBLING DICE (5.12C)
LONG POINT, SUMMERSVILLE LAKE,
WEST VIRGINIA
LONG POINT, SUMMERSVILLE LAKE,
WEST VIRGINIA
The lake is loaded with untapped potential, with 5.14 yet to be climbed over the water (as of Spring 2024). All kinds of boulders and routes wait to be established. A beautiful part of deep water solo climbing is the ability to climb without the need for gear: no bolts, no trad placements—even no shoes or chalk, if one desires. Deep water soloing on Summersville Lake feels so accessible, so free.Â
WRITTEN & PHOTOGRAPHED BY
KAREN LANE
I started taking photos when I was too pumped to climb. With tired hands at the end of a climbing day, I picked up an iPhone for a photo, and later turned to a used Sony from eBay, gifted by my partner. I’ve never had the best gear or formal training, but I know climbing. Most of the routes I photograph, I have climbed, or at least attempted. Knowing the routes intimately allows me to understand the moves and what climbers are experiencing, and what is to come with each bolt.
I love Appalachia, a region shaped by its people and landscape. I felt compelled to document the climbing scene here to prove its worth to the world, but I’ve found the photos prove more to the locals than to anyone else. I feel so loved, supported, and appreciated by my community—it keeps me stoked to continue my documentation of this place at this time.
Portrait by Drew Mercer
I love Appalachia, a region shaped by its people and landscape. I felt compelled to document the climbing scene here to prove its worth to the world, but I’ve found the photos prove more to the locals than to anyone else. I feel so loved, supported, and appreciated by my community—it keeps me stoked to continue my documentation of this place at this time.
Portrait by Drew Mercer
