miranda oakley

big wall climber + amga guide (she, her)
Miranda Oakley has been climbing in Yosemite National Park and the High Sierra since 2006 and working as a climbing guide at Yosemite Mountaineering School since 2013, establishing herself as one of the best all-around female trad climbers in the United States. Known for becoming the first woman to rope-solo The Nose of El Capitan in less than 24 hours, she has ascended El Cap over 20 times and done numerous ascents of other grade V and VI walls around the park, including numerous ascents of the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome, Astroman, and the Rostrum. Miranda has climbed extensively throughout the United States, Patagonia, and climbing areas worldwide and resides in Bishop, California.
DONE IN A DAY
“What I remember most about my solo ascent of The Nose was getting to Camp 6 (about 500 feet from the summit). I had one sip of water left, and I was looking at a long, thirsty rest of the evening. I had stashed a bottle of water lower down on the route a week earlier but when I arrived there it was gone. I found some old stale water stashed in jugs on the Camp 6 ledge. That was the moment I knew I would make it to the top in less than 24 hours.”
In the distance, Rachel skis in the backcountry on a powder day in the trees

miranda oakley

big wall climber + amga guide (she, her)
Athlete poster of Miranda Oakley
BE A GOOD STEWARD
“I believe that "stewardship" in climbing is always changing. As climbers we always have the responsibility to Leave No Trace ethics. We need to make it our priority to leave as little trace as possible, and that goes beyond picking up trash but also staying on route, replacing old rappel slings with new ones, and doing less posting on social media about wild, untouched climbing areas.

We also need to make climbing as inclusive as possible and focus more on safety, both physical and emotional. We need to ensure that people of all races, ethnicities, body types, sexual orientations, and genders feel comfortable and included in the climbing community.

As climbers, we are some of the most privileged groups of people in the world (simply being able to climb amazing peaks or routes is a huge privilege). We need to use our privilege to tackle issues of social justice and climate change. This can start on an individual level with emotional and environmental awareness and radical inclusivity.”
Rachel launches off a cliff while skiing in the backcountry
WHAT ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT SKILLS YOU TEACH YOUR CLIENTS WHILE GUIDING?
I try to teach people self-sufficiency and independent thinking. I like to push folks to make decisions for themselves in my classes, even if that means making mistakes because mistakes are great teachable moments. I also like to stress how much following Leave No Trace ethics can keep us safe while rock climbing and make us better climbers.
Not so serious! Rachel smirks at the camera, hands in air
DOES BEING PALESTINIAN-AMERICAN SHAPE YOUR EXPERIENCE OF ROCK CLIMBING? IF SO, HOW?
I hadn't given much thought to my ethnicity in climbing until I traveled to Palestine to rock climb in 2017 and then again in 2019. I had such an amazing experience with local Palestinian climbers and they made me feel like I was really a part of their community. I've always been proud of my Palestinian heritege, but for most of my life, I've been scared of bringing it up to new people in the climbing community because of how strongly people feel about the politics of the area. But, during my trips to the Middle East, I developed a deeper and more profound sense of pride in being Palestinian, and so I started sharing my story in slideshows. I was moved by how much support I recieved from the climbing community and how eager everyone was to hear my story and the story of Palestinian climbers. I noticed more people reaching out as Arab-American climbers and wanting to tell me about their family stories of diaspora. I think that folks are psyched to see someone with a similar family background "making it" in the climbing world.
WHAT IMPACT WOULD YOU LIKE TO HAVE ON THE GUIDING INDUSTRY?
I hope that my impact on the guiding industry would be to help transform peoples' ideas of how a climbing guide looks and acts. When most people think of a climbing guide they picture a young to middle-aged white guy with a plaid button up shirt driving a Toyota Tacoma. They assume that he will act a certain way and has accomplished certain things… I would like to help show people that climbing guides come in all genders, shapes, sizes, ethnicities, and experience levels. Often when I meet my clients in the office in the morning they ask where their guide is, assuming that I am an office staff worker. I like to think that I am changing what clients come to expect in a climbing guide, one person at a time. I try to support and encourage other guides that don't fit the mold hoping that eventually that mold will change.
WHERE IN THE WORLD DO YOU ASPIRE TO CLIMB?
I still have quite a few places on my list of places I'd like to climb in the world. (Partly because whenever I travel, I find more places I want to check out!) I want to go back to Palestine and help develop some more areas in the West Bank. I want to go back to Monterrey, Mexico to check out some of the big walls in that area. I would love to go back to Patagonia and climb in Torres del Paine. I also want to climb in Turkey and Greece and really want to check out Tasmania.
Happiest in deep powder, Rachel skies in white out conditions
miranda’s top picks
Women's Dynama/2 Pant, Color: Clay Earth Women's Dynama/2 Pant, Color: Clay Earth Women's Dynama/2 Pant, Color: Black Women's Dynama/2 Pant, Color: Black Women's Dynama/2 Pant, Color: Dark Zinc Women's Dynama/2 Pant, Color: Dark Zinc Women's Dynama/2 Pant, Color: Blue Slate Women's Dynama/2 Pant, Color: Blue Slate Women's Dynama/2 Pant, Color: Khaki Women's Dynama/2 Pant, Color: Khaki
Women's Stretchdown Hoody, Color: Jack Pine Women's Stretchdown Hoody, Color: Jack Pine Women's Stretchdown Hoody, Color: Wild Oyster Women's Stretchdown Hoody, Color: Wild Oyster Women's Stretchdown Hoody, Color: Dark Storm Heather Women's Stretchdown Hoody, Color: Dark Storm Heather Women's Stretchdown Hoody, Color: Black Women's Stretchdown Hoody, Color: Black
Down-insulated hoody woven from a single stretch fabric for warmth and movement
Regular price: $300.00
Route Setter Alpine Work Glove, Color: Black Route Setter Alpine Work Glove, Color: Black
The ultimate work glove for guides route setters tackling cold-weather jobs
Regular price: $90.00
Infrared landscape image of a climber in the distance, climbing in the Needles.

inside an
all day epic
Written by Miranda Oakley,
MHW athlete and AMGA Guide.
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