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Dawn Glanc

I was born and raised in Brunswick, Ohio. I started college at Kent State University in Ohio. My first few semesters, I was introduced to climbing and Outdoor Education. It was at this time of my life that I realized Ohio was not the place for me to be. This city girl wanted to explore the mountains and learn more about the outdoors. In 1996, I moved to the Black Hills of South Dakota to pursue a degree in Outdoor Education. The Black Hills served as perfect terrain for me to develop my climbing skills and to learn how to live and play in the outdoors.  It was in the Black Hills where my passion for climbing truly grew. In 1998 I graduated with a Bachelors Degree in Outdoor Education.

Shortly after graduation, I began rock guiding for some small guide services in the Black Hills. As time passed, my ambitions grew, and I began to feel as though I was outgrowing the small oasis of the Black Hills. In 2004, I moved to Bellingham, Washington, and became a mountain guide with the American Alpine Institute. Since moving to Washington, I have worked full time as a mountain guide. I have guided in the northern Cascades, eastern Sierras, Red Rock Canyon Nevada, Joshua Tree National Park, Ouray Colorado, Alaska and Canada. I have guided three Denali expeditions. To further my career as a guide, I am currently pursuing my full IFMGA certification through the American Mountain Guide Association. This international certification will allow me to work as a guide throughout the world.

Get to know Dawn Glanc

  • Name:
    Dawn Glanc
  • Birth Date:
    May 6, 1975
  • Place of Birth:
  • Current Home town:
    Ouray Colorado
  • Primary Sport:
  • Specialties within your sport:
    Ice and Mixed climbing
  • Other hobbies or sports:
    Yoga, Pilates and hiking with my dogs
  • My favorite Mountain Hardwear products?
    I am dressed entirely in Mountain Hardwear, right down to my underwear. The Solidus and the Zonal Jackets are my standard top layers. I also keep a Nilas Jacket in my pack for belays and cold nights around camp.
  • How were you introduced to your sport?
    I was introduced to both rock and ice climbing in 1996 when I moved to the Black Hills of South Dakota. Mike Niebuhr was the person who introduced me to the world of sport climbing. Later that same year, he called to ask if I wanted to go ice climbing. Curiosity lead me to say yes, and I was hooked on the first day.
  • What inspires you?
    I do not read magazines or books about climbing. Instead, I meet other climbers and they inspire me. I listen to other people tell their stories of adventure and it makes me want to get after it.
  • Which athletes or other individuals have been your biggest source of inspiration?
    I am mostly inspired by my climbing partners. They push me and make me strive to do my best. Their belief in me gives me the confidence I need to go for it. No matter the outcome or how bad we may be suffering, we can still laugh and have fun. This relationship and the experiences we share are what makes me want to go out day after day.
  • What advice would you give to newcomers to (your sport) today?
    Climbing is a life threatening activity. Hire an AMGA certified guide to teach you the most current and efficient technical systems for climbing. These professional climbers have a lot of knowledge to share; knowledge that can help keep you safe. Don't fall into the trap of learning from someone who has been climbing forever. The climbing gear and systems change over time, and the veteran recreational climber may not be current in their information. A day out with a guide will be well worth your money.
  • What’s your favorite expedition meal?
    I like to eat foods that I won't be able to get while on the trip. Fresh fruits and veggies are what I stock up on.
  • What the first thing you look forward to doing after a long expedition?
    I first look for a long hot shower. Then I head straight for food. French fries are what I am typically after.
  • How do you balance your training schedule with your “real” job?
    My real job is Mountain Guiding. This can really disrupt my training schedule. Traveling and days in the field keep me off my routine. I keep myself on a fairly regimented training schedule whenever I am home and around the gym. My approach is to keep this training schedule realistic so that I can stick to it week after week.
  • Do you have any pre-expedition rituals?
    I just try to do the same thing as I always do, listen to some "booty quake music", relax and have fun. If I can stay calm and focused then I can climb as if it is any old day. It also helps that the other competitors are out to have fun, so the overall mood of the day is light and positive. No one is out for blood, and every one jokes around. It’s a great community of competitors.
  • In 10 years I hope to be…
    Happy, healthy and climbing harder than I am now.
  • Six-word bio:
    Climber, mountain guide, motivator and humorist.
  • When singing karaoke, what song do you sing to bring down the house?
    "Carwash”, I rock that song!
  • What music gets you fired up?
    I call it Booty Quake. This is any music that makes your ass move.
  • If you were a super hero, who would you be?
    When I was a kid, I thought anyone could grow up to be a super hero. I thought it was an occupation you could choose to do. I am currently looking into this.


  • Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition, women division, Ouray Colorado - First Place 2011, 2009; Second Place 2012, 2007; Third pace 2010
  • Teva Winter Games, women's Division, February 2012, Vail Colorado - First Place
  • 6 first Ascents in Iceland, on waterfall ice lines WI5-WI5+
  • 3 first Ascents in Cody Wyoming, waterfall ice lines WI3-WI4+
  • Red point Gold Line M10, Posers Lounge, Ouray Colorado
  • Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center Expedition to the Fairweather Range, June 2008

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Women's Daphnia™ Pant
Women's Daphnia™ Pant
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